Gary Holder's TT600R
Where to start ? Well in my case I took an
exceptional off road machine, the new Yamaha TT600R. This
already has quality components such as Paioli forks, Ohlins
shock and Brembo brakes. All this for only $11,995 from your
friendly Yamaha dealer.
This model was tested in “Kiwi Rider” Jan
2002 issue.

On this bike the first essential mod is to
disconnect the ignition retard wire (required for Aussie rules).
The black – black/red wire from the CDI box. No need to cut,
a bullet connector already exists for our non under-arm bowling
nation.

Next I added TZR250 wheels, 3” x 17” front
and 4.5” x 17” rear. These are reasonably common and can be
found at most bike wreckers. If you go for Honda wheels ie:
NSR or CBR250’s you may well be up for expensive bearings
as they have unusual axle diameters.

The rear wheel has a “cush-drive” and meant
that the sprocket would not line up correctly with the front
one, the hub was too far out. This was remedied by milling
about 12mm off the hub on the sprocket side, not too difficult
if you know someone, in this case, Omega Engineering.

A TZR 320mm front disk was added with an
adapter bracket made up for the brake calliper. Because the
front wheel was originally made for twin disks, a blanking
plate was fitted to the right hand side.

On the TTR the speedo sensor is fitted on
the R/H side and takes up quite a bit of axle length between
the two forks, no way to fit with the TZR wheel which is designed
for a left hand sensor anyway. The fix was to use an electronic
bicycle one, calibrated to the new tyre circumference. The
sensor picks up off the brake disk and is accurate up to 300KPH
(I wish). It also has ODO which records up to 99,999Km, trip
meter, av. speed etc.
Bearing and spacers to ensure a correct axle
fit were also required but overall a relatively simple job.
At the rear end we had to add a new disk.
TZR's have 3 bolts, the TTR has 6 and besides I didn't want
to have to change disks when converting back to off-road use.
Also because the rear wheel / tyre is now smaller in circumference,
only 84% of OEM tyre, a rear sprocket approx 84% less teeth
was used, 36 teeth, down from 44.
Finally adding some sticky rubber that would
heat up and perform under a lighter load was needed. Bridgestone's
excellent BT56SS's 110/60/17 front and 160?60/17 rear completed
the transformation. Alternatively Dunlop's GPR70's would be
a good choice.

A mention must go to Corey Taylor of Omega
Engineering and Don at Cycletreads, both in Christchurch.
Between them they sourced most of the bits and did the conversions.
I still have my off-road wheels and knobbly
tyres and can convert to mud use in about 30 minutes. Both
chains (the original and motard) have links to enable the
swap and it pays to put a little sticky solicon sealer over
the links to help prevent unwanted shedding of the clips.
Wanna know more? Gary can be contacted on
021 222 1592.

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